1.) crookedeye - 03/12/2017

is it possible to get perfect broadhead flight with youre field points?? seems like on my z7 my broadheads hit a inch right of my field points at 20 yards and its driving me crazy..any thing i do..move my rest crank down my poundage its the same thing.. im shooting maxima 250's 27inch arrows at about 60lbs..with a 100 grain field point ..

2.) crookedeye - 03/12/2017

i no the drury brothers would no what to do...

3.) crookedeye - 03/12/2017

would a hooter shooter put a field point and a broadhead in the same hole are cenapeds away??

4.) crookedeye - 03/12/2017

i dont want to start messin with my yokes or cams that could get ugly.had the same thing happen with fmj's 340's at about 65 lbs seems like broadheads always shoot to the right with this bow..

5.) Swamp Fox - 03/12/2017

Have you tried moving the rest in BOTH directions? I've had it happen a couple of times that a move OPPOSITE of what the tuning guide tells you to do was the right move. I'm assuming everything else is kosher.

I know plenty of people who would tell you if the difference between FP and BH is an inch or less, just adjust your sight to your most useful purpose and be done with it. I kinda lean that way myself after I know everything's in spec and I've tried a few things with no improvement.

6.) Swamp Fox - 03/12/2017

Also, get your butt signed up for the turkey contest, and your buddy Dan-o, too. I saw him lurking just now, but he wriggled away before I could get him in the boat...

7.) crookedeye - 03/12/2017

i'm officially sign up for the turkey contest..i shoot the same broadheads with my crossbow, with the cross bow they shoot pretty dead on.

8.) crookedeye - 03/12/2017

and my hoyt element they fly pretty close with my field points

9.) Swamp Fox - 03/12/2017

I doubt it's your arrow selection. Probably not worth experimenting with different BHs either.



[url]http://www.carbonexpressarrows.com/sites/default/files/2013_BowWeightDrawChart.pdf[/url]

[url]http://www.carbonexpressarrows.com/sites/default/files/CX_HuntingArrow_ShaftGuide.pdf[/url]

10.) crookedeye - 03/12/2017

every broadhead shoots to the right expandables and fixed..i nthink somthing screwed up in the yokes or cams..

11.) crookedeye - 03/12/2017

every broadhead rather expandables or fixed shoot pretty much consistantly to the right..this should be an easy fix..

12.) crookedeye - 03/12/2017

didnt i just say that?

13.) Swamp Fox - 03/12/2017

All the bow mechanics are out until tomorrow at 8 AM.

Right now, there ain't nobody here but us chickens...

14.) crookedeye - 03/13/2017

....

15.) Swamp Fox - 03/13/2017

^^^^^LOL...


What makes you think you need to mess with the yoke/idler/cam?



[url]https://shootingtime.com/archery/yoke-tuning-solo-cam-bow/[/url]

16.) Swamp Fox - 03/13/2017

BTW, don't pull your bow back to check the string if you've been eating Tater Tots...

That's about the best bow tuning advice I know...

17.) Jon - 03/13/2017

Grip, tiller, yoke twist, centershot........the indian?

18.) Swamp Fox - 03/13/2017

I've always thought of tiller being an up-down factor. How often is a L-R issue related to tiller?

19.) bluecat - 03/13/2017

I'm at this stage now as I've recently gotten new arrows so my tune will be starting from scratch. I plan on paper tuning with bareshafts to start. If your bareshafts are giving you bullet holes then you know your rest and string are lined up correctly.

Instead of playing with my rest this year, I'm putting it at the recommended 13/16" from the riser and leaving it there. There are several paradigms when tuning a bow. You can move the rest to match the powerstroke of the string or you can move the string to match the rest. Moving the string involves shimming (more of an extreme situation) or yoke tuning. Yoke tuning is really a few twists here and there to move the string a bit.

CE, bareshaft through paper first and see where you are.

20.) bluecat - 03/13/2017

[QUOTE=Swamp Fox;47608]I've always thought of tiller being an up-down factor. How often is a L-R issue related to tiller?[/QUOTE]

I believe you are correct.

21.) crookedeye - 03/13/2017

well i did the bare shaft tuning this morning and my un-fletched arrow flew to the right telling me i needed a stiffer shaft, then i paper tuned the bare shaft and had about an inch or 3 quarter tear to the left at about 4 feet ..corrected that so the tear was 1/2" low, but straight up and down..seems to be pretty much dead on at 10 yards field points and broadheads , but only at 10 yards.. i''l be curious to see when i can get out and shoot at a longer distance..

22.) crookedeye - 03/13/2017

i ended up moving my rest at least 1/8 th inch closer to the riser..the totally opposite way you would think to move the rest to correct the arrow flight

23.) bluecat - 03/13/2017

No, you moved the rest the correct way. A left tear, you move the rest to the right. It sounds like it doesn't make sense until you realize you are correcting the tail of the arrow and the not the tip.

24.) bluecat - 03/13/2017

You could have also added a twist to the left yoke of your bow which would corrected that situation without having to mess with your rest.

25.) bluecat - 03/13/2017

Always correct the up and down first so you are dealing with left and rights only and not everything at once.

26.) crookedeye - 03/13/2017

i even didnt mess with the up and down yet nocking point is a string loop..i figure a 1/2 inch at 4 yards isnt so bad ..i could move the rest a little up or down and see what happens..

27.) bluecat - 03/13/2017

[QUOTE=crookedeye;47616]well i did the bare shaft tuning this morning and my un-fletched arrow flew to the right telling me i needed a stiffer shaft, then i paper tuned the bare shaft and had about an inch or 3 quarter tear to the left at about 4 feet ..corrected that so the tear was 1/2" low, but straight up and down..seems to be pretty much dead on at 10 yards field points and broadheads , but only at 10 yards.. i''l be curious to see when i can get out and shoot at a longer distance..[/QUOTE]

I'm going to bypass the obvious joke here and say that before determining if you need a stiffer shaft, make sure that you are not inducing any torque while you are shooting.



Make sure your knuckles are forming a 45-degree angle from your bow.

28.) Jon - 03/13/2017

Yes, normally true however if you have other issues added in, it could be a factor. I learned some stuff when I was tuning bows, probably the biggest thing I learned is that there's never one answer to a basic question about tuning.
Assuming everything else (centershot, spine, grip, yoke, cam lean...) was correct, yes tiller SHOULD only affect up/down. Remember, the arrow comes out of the bow rotating so once the fletch attempts to correct flight, it has the possibility to be in any axis.

29.) crookedeye - 03/13/2017

thats what she said...

i dont think its my torgue, could be... but i shoot my hoyt element and the broadheads fly right with my field points..

30.) Jon - 03/13/2017

The torque you put on a bow is different depending on the bow's grip. Some guys shoot with a large grip and others will torque the hell out of a bow that has a large grip. Everything comes into play. If you grab the bow like you grab your meat, it might not have the same effect!

31.) crookedeye - 03/13/2017

i took the grip off of the matthews and wrap it with hockey tape, i like it but it is a little different. kinda like the left hand right hand debate..

32.) Swamp Fox - 03/13/2017

[QUOTE=crookedeye;47588]...my broadheads hit a inch right of my field points at 20 yards ...[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Swamp Fox;47593]Have you tried moving the rest in BOTH directions? I've had it happen a couple of times that a move OPPOSITE of what the tuning guide tells you to do was the right move. I'm assuming everything else is kosher.

[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=crookedeye;47616]well i did the bare shaft tuning this morning and my un-fletched arrow flew to the right telling me i needed a stiffer shaft, then i paper tuned the bare shaft and had about an inch or 3 quarter tear to the left at about 4 feet ..corrected that so the tear was 1/2" low, but straight up and down..seems to be pretty much dead on at 10 yards field points and broadheads , but only at 10 yards.. i''l be curious to see when i can get out and shoot at a longer distance..[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=crookedeye;47617]i ended up moving my rest at least 1/8 th inch closer to the riser..the totally opposite way you would think to move the rest to correct the arrow flight[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=bluecat;47618]No, you moved the rest the correct way. A left tear, you move the rest to the right. It sounds like it doesn't make sense until you realize you are correcting the tail of the arrow and the not the tip.[/QUOTE]

I think CE is meaning "opposite" in terms of his BH vs. FP flight. Most often, you see a recommendation to move the rest left (RH shooter) when the BHs hit right.

I have seen "opposite" moves solve problems with paper tuning as well. This has always been with human shooters, not hooter shooters, so there is no guarantee that torque or some other variable wasn't causing problems as well, but when I myself have been the test monkey, I have always had someone with better form shoot to confirm the tune, so I know I am not (always) the problem.

Once we get to paper tunes (vs. FP/BH) I have seen guides which explain your adjustments as pushing the nock end and others which don't explain it that way. Visualizing pushing the nock has always made the best sense to me.

33.) Swamp Fox - 03/13/2017

[QUOTE=Jon;47625]Yes, normally true however if you have other issues added in, it could be a factor. I learned some stuff when I was tuning bows, probably the biggest thing I learned is that there's never one answer to a basic question about tuning.
Assuming everything else (centershot, spine, grip, yoke, cam lean...) was correct, yes tiller SHOULD only affect up/down. Remember, the arrow comes out of the bow rotating so once the fletch attempts to correct flight, it has the possibility to be in any axis.[/QUOTE]

Makes sense. Thanks.

34.) BULLZ-i - 03/13/2017

DRINK ALCOHOL AND RUN WITH SCISSORS, IT WILL ALL WORK IT SELF OUT EVENTUALLY...

35.) Swamp Fox - 03/14/2017

[QUOTE=crookedeye;47628]i took the grip off of the matthews and wrap it with hockey tape, i like it but it is a little different. kinda like the left hand right hand debate..[/QUOTE]


These have worked for me:

[url]https://www.torqueless.com/product_p/matfg.htm[/url]




And there's no debate: Right hand rules.

Although left-handed redheads walk away with style points...

36.) Triton Rich - 03/15/2017

[B]I'm disappointed that I missed a tuning thread! Busy busy. Looks like the guys have you on the right path though. I wish I would have seen the grip diagrams that Bluecat put up sooner. I struggled with grip for many years without knowing it. I second the motion for a torqueless grip. I like mine quite well. Good luck CE![/B]